I got interested in using resin by reading this article in Bead Style magazine:
Stir Up Some Sweet Delights, by Steven James
I tried it after reading this tutorial:
Beading Daily Tutorial
Be sure to watch the video at the bottom.
There is a book that looks quite good by Sherri Haab; I have not yet purchased it, but when I get stuck into my Christmas ornament projects, I probably will.
There's a nice video on You-tube here: Making Resin Rings by John Golden
Easy Cast Clear Casting Resin
I used Easy Cast Clear Casting Resin, which I bought from a seller on ebay once and at Michael's once.
- With this product, you measure equal parts of the hardener and the resin.
- After combining the resin and the hardener, the mixture must be stirred for 2 minutes, moved to a clean container, and stirred for another minute.
- This product cures in 24 hours.
About having to wait: Although it is hard to wait that long to see if my latest experiment worked, I was not always neat and tidy when I did my projects, and with this slow curing resin, after about 12 hours, the resin was hard enough to, for example, scrape off the drips and drops. After 24 hours, the resin was so hard, the only way to remove unwanted spills is with sand paper.
About bubbles: This product "self degasses" which means the bubbles all pop themselves a few minutes after finishing all that stirring.
Castin' Craft Easy Mold
I made the molds for these gears using Castin' Craft Easy Mold and some Legos. I colored them after they were cured by putting them in a small zip lock bag with some metallic Ranger alcohol ink. You can scratch the color with your fingernail, but if you don't do that, that method of adding color on resin works well.
Look at the Beading Daily article above if you have not already. They contain the resin with a bezel frame and some sticky tape.
I wanted to make buttons, so instead of a bezel, like Jean used in the tutorial, I used plain round rings. In the beading world, these are either rings (as for your fingers) or links (as from a chain, which you can buy unlinked). I do not want to make my resin projects with sterling sliver, for a variety of reasons, but mostly because it tarnishes, and I'd bet the resin would not fair well with the silver polish.
I had luck with the following:
- Agate rings (I like the black ones)
- Stainless steal rings
- Tibetan Silver links
Searching for any of the above on ebay will yield an enormity of inexpensive options.While I did not have luck with it as of yet, I am optimistic about this last frame option:
- A plain bangle
I found a pack of girl's aluminum bangles at Walmart that are a very nice size. The key thing is that your frame must sit flat on the tape, so that the resin does not leak out. Whatever frame you choose, make sure it is flat on one side. I am going to cut some Christmas shapes out of paper using my Silhouette cutter and plop them into those to make some easy ornaments.
The sticky tape
Things that don't work well:
- Avoid contact paper.
- Avoid overlapping stirps of tape.
- Avoid duct tape.
My best results were from
- Scotch clear packaging tape.
What to put into the resin
You can stick virtually anything into resin. Here are some coloring ideas I tried. The Beading Daily link above has more.
- Acrylic paint, which sells at Joann's for $0.59 per bottle. I dipped a skewer into the paint, wiped it off a bit and used it to stir up the resin for some very bright translucent colors.
- Spices (the results still smell very slightly)
- Microbeads (from Matrtha Stewart)
|My first buttons (See my post here)|
- Flocking to make bright opaque colors
- Powders (chalk, eyeshadow) also to make opaque colors
- Objects of all sorts
- Pictures of things
- Shrinky dinks
Tip about including paper into resin
In the video listed above John Golden suggests coating the paper in Mod Podge before adding it to the resin. If you haven't discovered Mod Podge, get some. It's amazing stuff.